Leh Ladakh Tour

About 530 km and 12 to 13 hours on the Chandigarh road, then up the Beas valley through Mandi and Kullu. Depart by 5 am, breakfast near Karnal, lunch at Bilaspur or Mandi. Check in at Manali in the evening.

A rest day at about 2,000 m that also serves as the first step of acclimatisation. Hadimba temple and Old Manali in the morning, Solang valley after lunch. Buy any medicines, warm layers and cash you still need; ATMs beyond Keylong are unreliable.

Through the Atal tunnel, which removes the old Rohtang crossing, into Lahaul at Sissu. Follow the Chandra and then the Bhaga river through Keylong to Jispa, about 100 km and 4 hours. An easy day kept short so that the night is spent at roughly 3,200 m.

The road climbs past Deepak Tal and Suraj Tal to Baralacha La at about 4,900 m and drops to the Sarchu plain, about 90 km and 4 hours. Sarchu is a tented camp at about 4,300 m; drink water, avoid alcohol and expect a cold night.

The longest mountain day: the Gata loops, Nakee La and Lachulung La, lunch at Pang, the Morey plains, then Tanglang La at about 5,300 m and the descent to the Indus at Upshi. About 250 km and 8 to 9 hours. Arrive at Leh and rest.

Acclimatisation day. Morning at the Inner Line permit office with the driver; the permit covers Nubra and Pangong. Afternoon at Shanti stupa, Leh palace and the main bazaar, with Thiksey or Shey monastery if energy allows. Nothing strenuous.

Over Khardung La, about 40 km from Leh, and down to the Shyok. Diskit monastery and the large Maitreya statue, then the dunes at Hunder with the double-humped camels. About 120 km and 5 hours. Overnight at a camp or guest house in Hunder or Diskit.

The direct road follows the Shyok river through Agham and Shyok village to Durbuk and Tangtse, joining the Pangong road without returning to Leh. About 170 km and 6 to 7 hours on a mix of tarmac and gravel; the driver checks the road condition the evening before. Overnight at a camp on the lake at Spangmik or Lukung.

Early light on the lake, then the road over Chang La at about 5,360 m back to Leh, about 160 km and 5 to 6 hours. Stops at Hemis or Thiksey monastery on the way if not seen earlier. Overnight at Leh.

West along the Indus past the Magnetic Hill, the meeting of the Indus and Zanskar rivers, and Alchi. Lamayuru monastery sits above the road at about 125 km. Continue over Fotu La to Kargil, about 220 km and 7 hours in all. Overnight at Kargil.

Through Drass, with a stop at the Kargil war memorial, then Zoji La and the descent to Sonmarg and the Sindh valley, about 200 km and 6 to 7 hours. Reach Srinagar by evening and take a shikara on Dal Lake if the light holds.

The vehicle drops you at Srinagar airport for the morning flight to Delhi. If you would rather drive, the road back takes two days with a night at Jammu and is quoted separately.